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Photography by Ruth Wertzberger Carlson, Congress Tourism Indus
 A brief train ride away, Würzburg is the gateway to the Romantic Road, which was built after World War II and ends at a chateau in Munich that was the inspiration for Walt Disney’s Cinderella castle.
 Recently Orlando Bloom stayed at the Schlosshotel Steinburg castle overlooking the river and surrounding vineyards while filming The Three Musketeers. The castle’s restaurant features locally grown cuisine that rivals the best of France, with dishes such as smoked trout caught from the river below and chestnut soup.
 The most popular attraction in Würzburg is the Würzburg Residence, which was owned and run by bishops and is now a UNESCO world heritage site with the largest ceiling fresco in the world. One could spend hours staring at the exquisite artwork. If you’re unlucky in love, visit the troubadour monument outside. Rumor has it if you leave flowers, you will find true romance.
 I stayed at the Best Western Premier Hotel Rebstock, located in a landmark building—it was originally home to one of Germany’s oldest hospices—that has served as a guesthouse since 1408. Those who have subpar associations with stateside Best Westerns will be surprised; the lodging chain is far more upscale in Europe compared with its North American counterparts. I enjoyed sitting by the dining room’s cozy fireside drinking local white wine.
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 Both cities hold Christmas markets starting in November where you can sip hot mulled wine as you browse the booths showcasing locally made crafts. If you’re visiting romantic Germany alone, don’t despair; the locals are very friendly. I met a man warming bricks for people to warm their hands, and once he found out my maiden name is Wertzberger (which means “from Würzburg”), he introduced me to a possible relative who owns a dress shop. (Anyone who has seen my overstuffed closet knows we share the same genes!)
While Würzburg and Heidelberg are the settings for a romantic escape, after a trip down the Romantic Road, you’ll end up falling in love with the cities themselves.
The world’s largest ceiling fresco, located at the Würzburg Res
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december | JANUARY  2012
Heidelberg and Würzburg
The Romantic Side of Germany
Written by Ruth Wertzberger Carlson
A flea market in the alleyways of Heidelberg’s Old Town
The kissing city, a romantic road leading to the castle Walt Disney replicated, and a shop devoted to chocolates rumored to be aphrodisiacs— busy packing your bags for France, Italy, maybe Spain? Not so fast; these schatz, or treasures in English, are located in Germany. Forget your stereotypes of bratwurst, beer, and Bavarian costumes—think Baroque architecture, bittersweet chocolate aphrodisiacs, and broken-heart memorials.
 The softer side of Germany includes Heidelberg and Würzburg. My tour guide said visiting these spots was akin to picking the raisins out of the cake; in other words, discovering the best parts of Germany.
 Begin your romantic journey in Heidelberg, home of Heidelberg University, which was constructed in 1386 and is the oldest university in Germany. Only noblemen could attend in the past, and they spent much of their time at the chocolate shop Knosel, which opened in 1863, trying to woo the ladies attending the local finishing school. Since governesses were always nearby, the Knosel owner created a chocolate cookie wrapped in red paper with a silhouette of a young man and a young woman almost—but not quite—kissing, so the students could show their affections with this gift. The same family still runs this tiny store and makes the cookies by hand.
 When students partying late at night annoyed locals, the police erected a holding cell for students called Studentenkarzer. It quickly became a prison the men hoped to break into. Wine served with meals probably helped ease their pain! These young scions drew intricate illustrations and love notes on the walls and ceilings that visitors can admire to this day.
 Across the street from Knosel, Chocolaterie YilliY offers chocolates rumored to be aphrodisiacs. You select your favorite chocolate ranging from bittersweet to hazelnut, and the owner steams it with hot milk. Ooh la la, or, as they say in German, Siehe da! It’s a five-generation family-run shop, and the husband and wife hold regular seminars on pairing red wine and chocolate.
 This region is best known for its white wine varietals, but the strongest beer in the world, according to the 1994 Guinness Book of World Records, is served at Brauhaus Vetter, where you can sit on wooden benches reminiscent of church pews and watch the world go by. The thick beer Vetter 33 has a cherry flavor; be sure to soak up some of the alcohol with the famous potato fries.
 The biggest attraction in Heidelberg is the remains of the castle renowned for its variety of architecture styles created through the different royal regimes. It overlooks the red stucco roofs of the town and famous philosophers’ walk, a winding mountain path next to multimillion-dollar homes. The castle contains the largest wine cask in the world, holding 58,573 U.S. gallons.
 Don’t miss the pharmacy museum, with elaborate antique apothecary jars and cabinets. The gift store has entertaining retro cards with pretend pills guaranteed to cure heartache or melancholy.
 For the most romantic experience, stay at the historic Hotel Zum Ritter St. Georg, where you can spend hours, as Mark Twain did while he wrote A Tramp Abroad, watching the people walking through the heart of Old Town.
Heidelberg’s Grain Market (Kornmarkt)
Würzburg’s Old Main Bridge (Alte Mainbrücke)
THE CONE  Team
THE CONE Team
816-587-4411
816-820-6699
lcone@reeceandnichols.com
www.kansascitylifestyles.com

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